Video and Digital Imaging Instrumentation for Shoreline and Near Shore Studies
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Overview: A PC imaging system (the ‘Biscuit’) has been developed to assist in the study of coastal and shoreline dynamics and evolution. This compact, low power system uses video and digital imaging techniques to produce imagery compatible with the Argus software. Single shots, averaged images, variance images, and time stacks provide the necessary imagery to help identify and quantify shoreline changes and behavior. Publications from 3 recent and on going experiments are shown to demonstrate how scientists are using this tool. Recent developments in SLR digital imaging has enabled the collection of extremely high resolution images at sufficient frame rates to compute useful average and variance images.
The Instrument: The Biscuit system is a Windows XP Pro based, portable, low power image capture and processing system capable of gathering imagery from up to 4 video sources and/or 4 digital camera sources. It has been developed by Erdman Video Systems (http://www.video-monitoring.com) and has been commercially available since 2001. It can utilize a pan tilt as shown in the image below.
Or it can be configured with fixed cameras such as the installation shown below:
The Software: The software package included in the system is called VM95. It can be programmed for snap shots, averaged images, variance images and time stacks for any interval during any time
during day or night. Examples of these images are shown below:

VM95 can be set to use the ARGUS naming conventions for local storage and uploads. ARGUS is a world-wide beach monitoring network developed and operated by the Coastal Imaging Laboratory (CIL) at Oregon State University, U.S.A (see Holman, R.A., and J. Stanley, The history, capabilities and future of Argus, Coastal Engineering, in review, 2005.)Other software features include the video server capability, complete remote control with fast video viewing, automatic creation of slide shows and movies, and the ability to upload to the Internet following any desired schedule.Digital Cameras: Two consumer Olympus cameras and the digital SLR cameras from Canon can be used with the Biscuit system. These cameras have enormous advantages over video cameras in that they provide much more detail (up to 20x) and much lower noise than video and high pixel count electronic cameras. Canon SLR Cameras: Unlike the video cameras, the digital cameras cannot provide a stream of images, making them unsuitable for the average and variance computations until recently.. Due to the advent of gigabyte memory cards and faster electronics, useful average and variances images can be computed. The SLR cameras from Canon can attain speeds of 3 images per second for a limited number of images (12 – 100 depending on model) and sustained rates from 0.7 -1.0 seconds per image (1 – 1.5 fps). Images taken at these speeds are first all captured to the memory card, and then transferred to the PC. Once in the PC, the average and variance images are computed and archived. The process of retrieving and computing the images can take up to 10 minutes for a set of 100 images, depending on image size. The Canon 350D is their most economical SLR camera.. It can take a burst of 12 images at 3 images per second and can shoot at a sustained rate of approximately 1 image per second.One advantage of SLR cameras is that they have interchangeable lenses. This allows for the use of wide angle lenses yielding results far superior to those obtained with the consumer Olympus cameras (with built in lenses). Also, image stability from shot to shot is better with SLR cameras than with the Olympus non SLR cameras, because the lens can be set in ‘manual’ mode and will never change. Note that this means the zoom and focus cannot be changed through software. Digital SLR cameras have a limited number of ‘snaps’ due to the mechanical shutter (video cameras use electronic shutters and don’t wear out). This number appears to be anywhere from 100,000 to 500,000. This needs to be kept in mind when designing the sampling schedule. Consumer Olympus Cameras: In cases where image averaging and variance images are not required, but spatial coverage and detail is of high importance, the consumer Olympus cameras are more appropriate. There are 2 models that are supported, the SP350 (8megs, 3x zoom) and the SP500 (6 megs, 10x zoom). VM95 software allows complete control of zoom, focus, and exposure. When combined with a pan tilt, they provide maximum spatial coverage: 360° horizontally and +/-90° vertically. These cameras cost far less that the SLR cameras, yet provide extremely high quality imagery. Sustained capture rates on these cameras is around 1 image every 4 seconds. Field usage of the Biscuit System: Examples of how scientist are using the Biscuit system are taken from three different groups of researchers: Jack Puleo at the Univ. of Delaware, Dan Hanes at the USGS, and Daniel Conley at the Saclant Research Center. Papers and publications are shown below for each of these groups:A University of Delaware study has yet to publish any results since their study just began, but the images that are being captured can be viewed on line at:http://sandcam.coastal.udel.edu
The following USGS project was written up in a publication called Sound Waves:
USGS Scientists Investigate Surf-Zone Hydrodynamics at San Francisco's Ocean Beach
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The recent surf-zone study was conducted over 5 days approaching spring tides in late January 2006 (maximum measured tide range was 2.2 m). Five current profilers—upward-looking Aquadopps from Nortek—were mounted on aluminum frames and placed on the sandy seabed at nine sites in the surf zone. The frames were manually deployed and retrieved at low tide by brave USGS scientists Patrick Barnard, Dan Hanes, Jodi Eshleman, Li Erikson, Peter Ruggerio, and Josh Logan, along with Andrew Schwartz of the Washington State Department of Ecology (DoE). To keep the instruments in place on the seabed within the high-energy surf zone, the frames were stabilized with two sand anchors on either side of the frame along the direction of breaking waves. In addition to sand anchors, tapered "feet" protruding from the bottom of each frame were buried in the sand. The Aquadopp current profilers collected time-series measurements of depths (pressure) and currents in the north-south and east-west directions at 10-cm intervals through the water column.
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Above left: Nortek Aquadopp current profiler mounted on an aluminum frame (constructed by Kevin O'Toole at the USGS Marine Facility in Redwood City, Calif. Two handles facilitate moving the apparatus. Sand anchors on the handle ends and tapered "feet" protruding from the frame bottom and embedded in the sand help keep the frame and instrument steady in the waves. Photograph by Patrick Barnard. [larger version] |
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Concurrent with the Aquadopp measurements, a video camera encased in a protective housing and mounted on the roof of the Cliff House restaurant was used to film the northern section of Ocean Beach (just south of the Cliff House; see Ocean Beach Webcam). The camera's field of view encompassed the locations of the northernmost Aquadopp instruments. Two variations of video images were generated (employing a system developed by Erdman Video Systems) and are currently being analyzed: (1) time-averaged images encompassing the camera's entire field of view and (2) "time stacks" along five cross-shore transects numbered T1 through T5.
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Above left: Locations of instruments used to measure wave heights and currents during the surf-zone study in January 2006, superimposed on two aerial photographs (upper half from California Spatial Information Library [CSIL]; lower half from San Francisco Bay Area Regional Database [BARD]. Aquadopps, Aquadopp current profilers; ADPs, acoustic Doppler profilers. [larger version] |
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Time-averaged images were created from consecutive video images averaged over 10-minute intervals. Because waves do not break consistently in the exact same place, a more easily discernible and stable image of the wave-breaking region is obtained with a suite of averaged images. The time-averaged images are analyzed for spatial determination of sand-bar dynamics and the presence of rip currents.
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"Time stacks" are composite images created by extracting a line of pixels along each of the five transect lines in a video frame and pasting the lines of pixels side by side. The same set of pixels were extracted from consecutive video frames, taken at a rate of two frames per second, and stacked vertically to produce an image with time on the vertical axis and cross-shore distance (of the five transects) on the horizontal axis. Time-stack images are analyzed for maximum runup length (that is, maximum inshore distance of the leading edge of the waves), swash period, and cross-shore current velocities. Runup height (maximum elevation above sea level at the leading edge of the waves) is calculated by combining the data from time-stack images with high-resolution measurements of foreshore elevations (see below). A technique for obtaining alongshore current velocities from the cross-shore time stacks is being developed. Current-velocity measurements obtained with the Aquadopps are used to verify the cross-shore and alongshore velocities determined from time stacks.
In addition to data collected with the Aquadopp current profilers and the roof-top video camera, a suite of parameters related to surf-zone mechanics were also measured:
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Above left: Typical time-stack image obtained during the surf-zone study at Ocean Beach. Image was created by extracting a line of pixels along each of the five transect lines (T1 through T5) in a video frame and pasting the lines of pixels side by side. The same set of pixels were extracted from consecutive video frames, taken at a rate of two frames per second, and stacked vertically to produce an image with time on the vertical axis and cross-shore distance (for each transect) on the horizontal axis. Shoreline is on the left in each transect. [larger version] |
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Field support for the various measurements was provided by the same people who maneuvered the Aquadopp current profilers (see above), along with Ann Gibbs, Gerry Hatcher, and Liron Friedman from the USGS Pacific Science Center; Jeff Hansen from San Francisco State University; and Lindsey Doermann from the DoE.
For more information about our work at Ocean Beach, visit the Ocean Beach Coastal Processes Study. For more information about the "Coastal Evolution: Process-Based Multi-Scale Modeling" project, of which the Ocean Beach study is a part, visit Coastal Evolution: Process-based Multi-scale Modeling.A research paper from the USGS is shown below illustrating some new applications using the time stack data.
A field campaign for Rapid Environmental Assessment (REA) was led by Daniel Conley using the video and digital Biscuit system. The following is one of their publications: REA in the Nearshore Daniel C. Conley+, Alex Trangeled+, Giovanni Zappa+Lavinio Gualdesi+, Piero Guerrini+, Rob A. Holman*+NATO Undersea Research Centre, La Spezia Italy*College of Oceanic and Atmospheric Sciences, Oregon State University, Corvallis U.S.A.
ABSTRACT An instrument suite has been developed to assist in performing REA in the nearshore. The suite permits real time monitoring of point values of wave height, wave period, wave direction, mean water level, & longshore currents, local meteorological conditions, and spatial information such as shoreline location, surf zone width, number of lines of surf and the location of shallow topographic features. Composed of three major components, the suite includes a pressure-current meter, a meteorological station, and a video monitoring system. All individual components include an energy source, a separate CPU and satellite communication systems so that they can autonomously provide real-time information remotely. Data examples from a test deployment during the MREA04 field trial are presented and the data is contrasted with control measurements from traditionally deployed instruments in order to assess instrument reliability and the value of such measurement in the nearshore.
1. INTRODUCTION Until recently, very little effort has been applied to the development of Rapid Environmental Assessment (REA) techniques for the very shallow water zone of operations (depth < 10 m). This region, which is sometimes referred to as the nearshore, is typically off limits to traditional methods of environmental assessment due to the shallow depth and the highly dynamic and energetic surf zone contained within its limits. Nonetheless, the nearshore is one of the maritime regions of greatest interest as it represents the zone of transition between land and sea and is the region with the highest density of human activity. In order to address the lack of REA techniques in this vital region, the NATO Undersea Research Centre (NURC) has developed a unified REA system for monitoring of the nearshore. In-situ monitoring of the nearshore is a fundamental piece of REA and serves multiple functions; it provides direct, real-time measurements of environmental parameters, it provides data for data assimilation in nearshore models, and it allows for the determination of model output reliability. With these uses in mind, the general design requirements for the nearshore monitoring system were determined to be the following. System measurements must include:
The components of the system must all be autonomous and capable of operating for a sustained period of time without operator intervention or external energy sources. The measured data must all be communicated remotely on a close to real-time basis. All components must be reasonably sized so that they can be easily transported and installed in remote locations with a minimal level of manpower and infrastructure requirements. The final nearshore monitoring system which has been developed at NURC is called the REmote Surf & ShOre Reconnaissance System (RESSORS) and this article will provide a detailed technical description of RESSORS (Section 2), describe an example deployment of RESSORS as part of the MREA04 exercise (Section 3), and present a comparison of RESSORS derived data with data obtained from traditional methods (Section 4).
2. SYSTEM DESCRIPTION RESSORS is a unified nearshore monitoring system which is composed of three individual physical components. The first component is a current-pressure sensor which provides local measurements of the directional wave spectra and the longshore current. The second component is a video monitoring package which provides image data that can be used determine shoreline location, surf-zone width, number of lines of breaking surf, and to identify the location of longshore bars & troughs and nearshore circulation cells. The final component is a beach meteorological monitoring package which provides data on the local temperature, barometric pressure, wind speed and direction, and the relative humidity. Each individual component meets the system requirement for independent operation and real-time communication as well as additional capabilities as necessitated by the individual components. EMACS The core of two of the RESSORS components is EMACS (Embedded Maritime Acquisition and Control System) which is an autonomous acquisition system that is designed to be modular and has the capability to operate with multiple sensors either individually or simultaneously. EMACS has the following general features:
During the data transmission phase, EMACS utilizes an intelligent data exchange mechanism (Figure 1) to verify that all previously transferred data has indeed arrived at the destination and, if required, re-transmit it. Simultaneously, it checks for any special tasks to perform, such as a “Stay-online” command for re-configuration or switching to real time operation
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Figure 1: EMACS flow diagram.

Wave and current meter The underwater component of RESSORS is the in-situ wave and current meter (Figure 2).
Figure 2: Schematic diagram of the RESSORS wave-current meter during deployment. The EMACS package which rests on the sea bottom contains batteries and the CPU unit for control of data collection from the current-pressure sensor, data analysis, and subsequent data transmission via Globalstar. This module is composed of a sensor, an EMACS unit and batteries housed in an underwater electronics package, and a sensor buoy which contains the satellite modem antenna. The sensor used is a Nortek Vector 3-D velocimeter. This sensor contains an acoustic-Doppler current velocimeter, as well as pressure, temperature, compass, and tilt sensors. In typical operation, point measurements, which include 3 orthogonal components of geo-referenced fluid velocity, pressure and data quality flags, are collected for 12 minutes every collection period. The approximately 4 Mbytes of data collected during this period are saved and subsequently processed in the EMACS unit. As a first processing step, the saved 8 Hz. data are cleaned as described by Elgar et al [2001a] and decimated to 2 Hz.
In the subsequent step, mean quantities such as mean currents and water depth are calculated and the complete directional wave spectrum is estimated using a modified version of the DIWASP package [Johnson 2002]. The spectra estimation is performed utilizing the Iterated Maximum Likelihood Estimator [Pawka 1983]. Standard single value wave parameters such as significant wave height and peak period and direction are in-turn derived from the spectra. In the processing step, the data stream is reduced by 3 orders of magnitude, passing from 4 Mbytes of data to less than a Kbyte. The reduced data set is subsequently transmitted utilizing the satellite modem in the sensor buoy Video Monitoring Package. The second component of RESSORS, the video monitoring system, is modeled after the ARGUS world-wide beach monitoring network developed and operated by the Coastal Imaging Laboratory (CIL) at Oregon State University, U.S.A [Holman & Stanley; 2005] and most of the software utilized for this component was generously provided by the CIL and their collaborators at NRL, Stennis Space Center.
The camera system utilized in this version of RESSORS was developed by Erdman Video Systems (http://www.video-monitoring.com) and is composed of both a high resolution (2272 x 1704 pixel) digital still camera and a digital video camera (640 x 480 pixel) which can be sampled rapidly. Both cameras are mounted on a fine-resolution pan-tilt device. The camera is capable of collecting individual snap-shots, as well as long duration (>10 minutes) time-exposed images at data rates around 2 images. The camera control software permits a remote operator to schedule image collection of specified types of images with desired camera orientation at arbitrary desired intervals. Thus, for example, a collection schedule which assembles images, both time-exposed images and snapshots, spanning the entire beach, can be programmed to occur at sunrise, noon, and sunset every day. The associated PC based controller performs camera control and image collection, creates the time-averaged images (thereby sharply reducing data transmission overhead) and transmits the resulting compressed images to the remote data collection center. Due to the higher data transmission requirements of the video monitoring system, a Very Small Aperture Terminal (VSAT) satellite link was utilized to provide sufficient bandwidth for FTP of the images. Two way satellite communication is available through this system thereby enabling operator intervention to request new data or to fine-tune existing image collection schedules. A real-time kinematic GPS survey is performed as part of the camera emplacement procedure. This provides high accuracy (O(cm)) relative positions of several reference points in the camera field of view which are referred to as Ground Control Points (GCP). The survey also serves to locate the absolute position of the camera installation. This information is used to rectify and merge images from multiple views into a single geo-referenced image of the monitoring site. Time exposed images of this type [Lippman & Holman; 1989] are used to extract additional information about morphological features of the submerged beach, dimensions of the surf-zone, and the location of nearshore currents. Snapshot images also provide limited information about the direction of incident waves and breaker type.
Meteorological station The final RESSORS component is the beach meteorology unit in which a compact portable meteorological measurement station is paired with an EMACS unit and an Iridium satellite modem. The onboard EMACS computer operates around the clock, sampling averaged temperature, relative humidity, barometric pressure, wind speed and direction every 30 seconds. Once per hour the data is compressed and transmitted to the remote data collection point via IRIDIUM. Following successful transmission, the various components are reprogrammed for the subsequent cycle and the process repeats itself.
3. SYSTEM DEPLOYMENT & SAMPLE PRODUCTS As part of the MREA04 field trial which took place in Portuguese territorial waters during late March – early April 2004, RESSORS was deployed at Pinheiro da Cruz beach (Figure 3) from 4-10 April 2004. Pinheiro da Cruz beach is a sandy-cliff stretch [Pires-Silva et al., 2002] bounded by the Sado Estuary to the north and Sines Harbor to the south.

Figure 3: Diagram of the study area. The shoreline is relatively straight and its orientation is approximately North-South. The mean tide range is 2.75 m and a pronounced longshore bar at low tide is a persistent feature of the nearshore bathymetry. The wave-current meter was deployed at 1.5 m depth at low tide on the landward flank of the first trough in the surf-zone. The instrument was deployed with the velocity sensor element looking upwards and sensor is programmed to collect 12 minutes of data every two hours. The data buoy cable was 12 m long and had a secondary sand screw mooring 7 m to the south of the sensor mooring in order to prevent cable fouling. Following data analysis, the reduced data set of parametric values was transmitted to a remote data fusion center where automated computer scripts generated real-time products for the end user (Figure 4).
Figure 4: Web figure which is automatically script generated in order to provide easy to assimilate end-user interface for wave-current sensor. Present current and wave conditions are given graphically (arrows) in the proper geographic location while a more complete past history of waves and currents is provided in graphs on the side bar. A link for a text file containing the raw data in tabular form is also presented on the web page. In order to provide additional measurements for sensor validation, two other pressure-current meters were deployed to the south of the RESSORS instrument (Figure 3). These instruments were also Nortek velocimeters but they were deployed in an umbilical fashion in which cables for transmitting data and electrical power were strung between the instruments and a field laboratory. These sensors were set to operate continuously at 8 Hz and data was recorded in the laboratory in 2 hour bursts. The RESSORS sensor was labeled as sensor N4, the middle sensor was N6 and the southern most was N9. The video monitoring package was deployed on the bluff behind the beach at the location which provided the highest elevation with an unobstructed view of the beach. This location was approximately 125 m to the East of N4 and 110 m to the north at an elevation of 20 above msl. Pinheiro da Cruz is located outside the main footprint of the Eutelsat W10 satellite, and the satellite provider recommended a larger satellite dish (140 cm) then what is required in most other areas of Western Europe. The nominal bandwidth of the system was 256 kbps upload and 512 kbps download. Consistent tests however indicated significantly poorer performance, averaging 53 kbps up and 320 kbps download. This had a severe impact on the energy consumption characteristics of the system resulting in sharply reduced battery longevity. The video system was however quite stable and provided reliable connectivity throughout MREA04. Sequences of 4 time-exposed images and 4 snapshots spanning the entire beach were programmed to be collected 3 times/day in the morning, at mid-day, and in the evening. An example of a geo-referenced time exposed video image of the study site which has been created from a 4 image sequence collected by the video monitoring system at low tide on 7 April 2004 is shown in Figure 5. Sensor locations and the locations of objects used as GCPs have been plotted on the image.
Figure 5: Geo-referenced image of the study area constructed by merging and re-projecting 4 time exposed video images collected by the video monitoring system at 10:00 am on 7 April 2004. The meteorological station was also placed on the bluff approximately 120 m E of N6 at an altitude of 20 m (sensor elevation 2 m above ground). The station collected data continuously, calculated 30 s means and transmitted data to the data fusion center hourly. Script generated web pages which were hosted at the data fusion center (Figure 6) provided real-time information for the end user. This information can be used to assess local conditions, or as an input to local circulation models as well as NBC dispersion models. Once again, data visualization products can be produced in the data fusion center and the data can be made available for utilization in simulation schemes.
4. DATA COMPARISON The techniques utilized in the RESSORS system to measure nearshore environmental parameters have been utilized in myriad field and laboratory applications. However the MREA04 exercise provided a unique opportunity to contrast the RESSORS implementation of these techniques against more traditional implementations as well as to observe the generality of single point sensors in the nearshore. With that goal in mind, a plot of time series of tidal elevations and significant wave height for the RESSORS (N4) and the traditional sensors (N6 and N9) is presented in Figure 7
Figure 6: Automatic script generated web graphic used to provide easy to assimilate end-user interface for the meteorological sensor. Current weather conditions are provided in an easily accessible format at the top of the page and time series of previous observations are graphed below. A link for a text file containing the raw data in tabular form is also presented on the web page.
Figure 7: Plot of significant wave heights and mean sea-surface elevation changes as collected by all three wave current meters. The parameters for the traditional sensors have been calculated using 12 minute sections of the data stream which correspond to the collection periods of the RESSORS sensor. As suggested by the figure, the rms difference in tidal elevations for all sensors is relatively low. Using all 64 data points for which all sensors were submerged, an rms elevation difference among all sensors is 0.08 m which represents approximately 3% of the total tidal variation during the experiment. This figure appears to be relatively independent of local water depth. The significant wave height results show considerably more scatter and the mean rms variation in wave height estimation across all sensors is 0.10 m. This figure represents over 15% of the mean measured wave height of 0.61 m. It is however clear from the figure that the greatest differences occur during periods of lower water. A comparison of the nearshore currents from the three sensors is presented in Figure 8.
Figure 8: Time series plots of (a.) mean water depth and significant wave height as collected by N4 and mean current vectors collected at N4 (b.), N6 (c.), and N9 (d.). Arrows are relative to the shoreline so a vertical arrow pointing upwards represents a purely cross-shore current flowing to the west. Examination of the figure suggests that there is little relation between the various currents measured by the different sensors. This is supported quantitatively by the correlation analysis which is presented in Table 1.
CC (N4-N6) |
CC (N4-N9) |
CC (N6-N9) |
|
E Vel. (all samples) |
-0.79 |
-0.28 |
0.34 |
N. Vel. (all samples) |
0.68 |
0.18 |
0.27 |
E Vel (h<1.6 m) |
-0.42 |
0.15 |
-0.71 |
N. Vel (h<1.6 m) |
0.04 |
0.03 |
0.33 |
E Vel (h>3.0 m) |
0.23 |
0.32 |
0.67 |
N. Vel (h>3.0 m) |
0.55 |
0.67 |
0.68 |
E. Vel (1.6<h<3.0 m) |
-0.65 |
-0.63 |
0.58 |
N. Vel (1.6<h<3.0 m) |
0.86 |
0.11 |
0.30 |
Table 1: Table of correlation coefficients for different components of velocity signal from the 3 wave-tide gauges deployed at Pinheiro da Cruz. A total of 64 data points are used in the analysis with 12 collected when the water depth was less than 1.6 m, 23 with depths between 1.6 and 3 m, and 29 with depths greater than 3 m. This table demonstrates that, considering all the data, there is in fact an anti-correlation between the cross-shore (eastward) currents at N4 and N6. Close examination of the results illustrates that while there are different periods where correlations are reasonably high between N4 and one of the other sensors, the only time when there are strong positive correlations between all three sensors is in the case of the longshore (northward) current when the water depth is greater than 3 m.
5. DISCUSSION While the results of the MREA04 nearshore measurements indicate that there is considerable scatter in nearshore measurements, closer examination indicates that the presence of measurement variability can be directly accredited to bathymetric effects at the measurement location. At instrument deployment on 4 April, all sensors were located on the landward side of trough nearest the shoreline. However, as can be seen from the image in Figure 5, the longshore bar near N4 has either grown or migrated so that on 7 April, the current meter is located on the seaward side of the shoreward most trough. The snapshot images presented in Figure 9 clearly demonstrates that at low tide, the only sea surface variations experienced by the N4 sensor were the remnants of swash bores which have largely dissipated while propagating across the bar flat.
Figure 9: Geo-referenced image of the study area constructed by merging and re-projecting 4 snapshot images collected by the digital camera in the video monitoring system. The images were collected on 7 April 2004 at around 10:00 GMT.
Sensors N6 and N9, which remained on the landward side of the trough and were located adjacent to the gap in adjacent crescentic longshore bars, continued to experience the full impact of the shoaling surf even at low tide. This pattern, which corresponds to operator observations, can be observed clearly in Figure 7 where the wave heights at N6 & N9 continue to be comparable at low tide while the height at N4 is greatly reduced. The rms difference between wave heights at N6 and N9 is 0.08 m while the corresponding difference between N4 and N6 (N9) is 0.20 (0.18) m. If however, data comparisons are limited only to periods when the mean water level was 3 m or greater, the values are greatly reduced with rms differences between N4 and N6 of 0.08 m and 0.06 between N4 and N9. In fact these values are directly comparable to the 0.07 m difference between deeper water wave heights at N6 and N9. Using only the deeper water values, the mean rms difference between wave heights among all instruments is only 0.06 m. A simple analysis of the Elgar et al [2001b] data from SandyDuck shows that this value is within typical instrument scatter for measurements in longshore homogenous environments. Examination of Figures 5 and 9 clearly indicates that, at least when the local water depth is low, the mean flow at all locations will be strongly influenced by the local bathymetry. It is also clear that this effect may well be different for each individual location. N4 is located on the landward flank of a crescentic bar while N6 and N9 are both located in the trough just landward of the exit channel between 2 adjacent crescentic bars. However while N6 appears to be directly landward of the main channel, N9 is located half way between the main channel and a secondary channel to the south. Thus when the nearshore circulation is driven by the bathymetry, we would expect eastward flow at N4 where swash bores propagate over the swash bar creating an eastward mass transport but most likely westward transport at N6 as the channelized flow in the trough returns to sea in the inter-bar depression. While it would appear that eastward flow at N6 & N9 should correlate, Figure 9 suggests that at extremely low water, a nearshore circulation cell could develop with opposing flows at the primary and secondary exit channels. Similarly, when bathymetric driven circulation dominates, it can be expected that the longshore flow at N6 and N9 are convergent (or divergent). It is only during deep water (h > 3m) that cross-shore radiation stress gradients may be expected to dominate other forcing and lead to longshore homogeneity in longshore currents. The results presented in Table 1 provide qualitative agreement for these arguments. The images presented in Figure 10 are rectified and merged time-exposed images from three different times during the measurement period. The particular periods were selected to represent different stages in the tidal period and hence different local water depth. Mean current vectors as registered by the in-site sensors have been drawn on the images. Figure 10a is the same image as used in Figure 5 and it can be seen that during this low tide condition (depth=1.7 m) the currents are strongly controlled by the bathymetry.
Figure 10: Rectified and merged time exposed images of the MREA04 study site with current vectors from the 3 measurement sites superimposed. The image in a). was collected at 10:00 on 7 April, 2004, b). at 13:00 on 9 April 2004, and c). at 14:00 on 5 April, 2004. The local depths at N4 were 1.7 m, 2.3 m, and 3.8 m respectively.
Flow at the northern most sensor (N4) indicates onshore flow from swash bores propagating shoreward over the crescentic bar. Flow at the middle (N6) and southern (N9) show converging flow from return currents in the nearshore trough flowing seaward through the exit channel. In Figure 10b it is seen that even at mid-tide (depth=2.3 m) the longshore current begins to dominate resulting in longshore coherence among all sensors even though there is still minor bathymetric influence on the landward components of the currents. Finally, under high tide conditions (depth = 3.8 m) the residual currents observed in Figure 10c exhibit no apparent bathymetric influence. These observations provide additional support for the arguments presented in the previous paragraph. Thus it appears clear that the RESSORS wave-current meter is providing reasonable measurements but that single point measurements of currents in the surf zone can not be expected to be representative when there is strong bathymetric control of flow conditions. These observations also demonstrate how valuable RESSORS imagery can be to explain the results of other in-situ measurements.
6. CONCLUSION The RESSORS (REmote Surf & ShOre Reconnaissance System) system has been shown to be a comprehensive package for REA applications in the nearshore. A deployment during the MREA04 field trial has demonstrated its ability to autonomously provide real-time environmental data from remote surf zones. Simultaneous data collection with traditionally deployed sensors indicates that wave height estimations provided by RESSORS are valid and representative of the local region. The measurements show that there is strong, tidally modulated, bathymetric control of nearshore currents in the trial location. Single point measurements of nearshore currents appear to be representative of the area only when this bathymetric control is less important. RESSORS collected surf zone images are shown to be highly useful for qualitative observations of nearshore bathymetry and as a tool to determine when point measurements may be representative.
7. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Sailors and officers of S.S. Borda who assisted in providing a GPS survey of the field site are gratefully acknowledged. Dr. Steve Elgar and his collaborators during the SandyDuck experiment are acknowledged for permitting us to use their unique data set.
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